True shiplap has a certain way that the wood planks interlock but I haven’t been able to find it anywhere convenient, which wouldn’t really be helpful for a tutorial anyway, right? I’ve also done a couple of different tutorials on shiplap so this time around I’m going to quickly go over the process highlighting some really helpful tips.
A quick rundown of the build process can be found below.
When you get your supplies, you'll want to look for ¼" plywood underlayment. This was in a different aisle than the other plywood, so ask someone to show you where it is. It cost me about $12 for a 4x8" panel.
Then ask them to rip it down for you. If they are willing, ask for it to be ripped to 5-7/8ths inch width. But they have been cracking down lately on cutting for customers and often won’t cut smaller than 12”. This is where it is so helpful to have your own table saw, but you can also rip with a circular saw.
If you do rip your boards yourself, make sure they are all the exact same size. I ended up having one board be about 1/4" wider than the others and I didn't notice I had nailed it on until awhile later when I realized the spot wrapping around the corner wasn't matching up the lines (I fixed it.)
Then sand, sand, sand. Each board will have lots of slivers sticking out and by sanding them off you'll have a cleaner edge and a more professional look. Taking the time to prepare properly will help you achieve the best possible outcome.
Paint can give new life to things you already own.
My baseboards are super modern and simple, just a ½" x 5" square-edge baseboard. This was so helpful because I could lie the plywood planks right on top of it. However if you have a baseboard that is different, here are a few ideas:
If you are doing something other than one wall, you might need to go around a corner. If it's an inner corner, you can be very precise with your cuts and just caulk the line or you can cover up mistakes with a piece of quarter-round trim.
However, I had to deal with an outer corner. This was a bit baffling at first because of the rounded corner on the baseboard. When you are doing shiplap around a corner, you will have a right angle, not a 30-degree angle like rounded corner baseboards have. I thought about mitering a bunch of tiny shiplap pieces to make a rounded corner for about 5 seconds. Ain’t nobody got time for that! What I decided to do was to cut the corner baseboard off completely and line both edges of the corner with MDF, making a vertical right angle from top to bottom. I also outlined the top of the wall as well. This means the entire shiplap wall was framed out, so to speak, creating a very clean look.
Painting is something that will make or break your shiplap accent wall! Since you will be painting straight onto raw wood, you will need a good paint that has a built-in primer. For this project, I purchased BEHR PREMIUM PLUS ULTRA®in Ultra Pure White Satin Enamel finish. It's my go-to paint and I've used it for nearly every wall treatment in my house.
Before I painted, I filled the nail holes and caulked the seams. When caulking, don’t get crazy with the caulk because it doesn’t just sand off easily. Caulk a seam and follow up with swiping your finger through it. Make sure to rub off any excess before it dries. Make sure to sand off the excess of nail filler.
Once that’s all dried, it’s time for the first coat. Meaning that it's time for you to cover everything that is not going to be painted. I did this because I wanted to use my paint sprayer to get in between all the cracks. When I was nailing in the first layers of shiplap, I tried using a brush to paint in between the lines. This worked pretty well but made the process of laying the shiplap much slower, so I stopped after a while.
When I used the paint sprayer, I thinned the paint with about a 1/2 cup of water and mixed it really well. Then I slowly sprayed about 6-10 inches from the surface, with a steady hand and going back and forth slowly and evenly. It was pretty exhausting, I'm not gonna lie. This sprayer is great but not really for large surfaces so after I sprayed all the cracks, I got the foam roller and went over each plank with it.
The difference between caulked and uncaulked seams is huge. If you miss a spot, don't fret, you can always go back and caulk it after you paint. To do this, I took painter's tape and pressed it close to the seam. Then I caulked it and took the tape off immediately before it dried. After that, it was all finished.
Making your home lighter and brighter can be as simple as a new coat of paint.
To finish off this wall, I wanted some farmhouse style open shelving. I hung some wrought iron brackets and stained some 2x10 boards using this weathered wood finish technique. I love the finished result! It was so worth all the hard work.
Find your color, pick your paint, and be inspired.
When you're ready, buy your paint online.
Heidi is a wife to Aaron, mom of 4, and crazy about DIY, home décor, and crafts. She is always working on some type of home project, whether it be for her own home or for someone else. She loves challenging herself to try new things and conquer old fears.
6 GallonsOLD SUBTOTAL
5 Gallon Bucket + 1 Gallon CanNEW SUBTOTAL
* Important Disclaimer: Coverage calculator results are to be used only as estimates. Behr Process Corporation cannot guarantee that you will achieve proper results without verifying your measurements and assumptions.
Get the look you want and the protection you need for any room in your home.
A flat sheen has a non-reflective finish that touches up well and hides minor surface imperfections.
Low-traffic areas; interior walls and ceilings
A matte sheen has a low-luster, reflective finish that is durable, easy to clean, touches up well and also hides minor surface imperfections.
Low-traffic areas; interior walls
Family rooms, living rooms, kids' rooms, bathrooms, dining rooms, ceilings
An eggshell enamel sheen has a soft, velvety appearance that resists dirt and grime, as well as mildew.
Family rooms, living rooms, bedrooms, kids' rooms, hallways, dining rooms
A satin enamel sheen has a pearl-like finish that's easy to clean.
All interior surfaces; moderate- to high-traffic areas
Family rooms, living rooms, bedrooms, kids' rooms, hallways, kitchens, bathrooms, doors, windows, trim, cabinets, shutters, interior furniture
A semi-gloss enamel sheen is sleek and radiant resisting mildew, moisture and wear.
Cabinets and trim; high-traffic, high-moisture areas
Kids' rooms, hallways, kitchens, bathrooms, doors, windows, trim, cabinets, shutters
Hi-Gloss enamel sheens provide have a brilliant, shiny appearance and a durable, glass-like finish that allows dirt and grime to be wiped clean.
Kitchens, bathrooms, doors, windows, trim, cabinets, shutters, interior furniture
Set the right curb appeal with exterior painting efforts that last.
A flat sheen is non-reflective, and easy to apply and touch up. It will minimize the appearance of minor surface imperfections.
Wood and vinyl walls and siding; brick and other masonry; fences
A satin enamel sheen creates a pearl-like finish that's durable and dirt-resistant. It will also resist moisture, fading and stains.
Virtually all exterior surfaces
A semi-gloss enamel sheen is sleek and radiant with a hard, durable finish. It is formulated to withstand wear, and will also resist moisture, fading and stains.
Doors, trim and shutters; Exterior furniture
Hi-Gloss enamel sheen have a brilliant, shiny appearance and a durable, glass-like finish that allows dirt and grime to be wiped clean.
Never miss out on the hottest deals and latest news from BEHR.